Vestmannaeyjar
We departed from our hostel after breakfast this morning at approximately 8:10am, arriving at the waterfall Seljalandsfoss at 8:31am. This scenic waterfall cuts through the heath-covered landscape to plummet over a 65 meter cliff, which once was the shore of the Atlantic Ocean. According to legend, an ancient female troll was attempting to cross the gorge but retreated in terror when she heard the bells ringing at nearby Asólfsskálar church. This waterfall is unique in that tourists can actually walk around via the cavern behind the falls. Viewing the waterfall from the inside was an inspirational experience, but one that made me very thankful for my rain jacket. On sunny days, the mist from the falls forms a rainbow. South of this location is a forested area, which is home to the entrance to a 20 meter long cave. This cave once was used as a gathering place for parliamentarians of Iceland's West Eyfellinga. We departed from this site at 8:26am, paced by a bit of urgency to make the ferry to the Westman Islands (Vestmannaeyjar in Icelandic) before its 9:45am departure. After a brief ferry ride aboard the ship Herjolfur, we landed on the largest and most populous of the Westman Islands, Heimaey, at 10:15am. Once there, we set out on a strenuous hike to the highest point on the island. Our trek was vertical at times, requiring us to climb ladders built into the rocky walls of the mountain, pull ourselves up ledges with chains and ropes, and ascend recently-constructed staircases. Near the summit, we observed many sheep and lambs, grazing on the green highland grass and fertilizing it with pungent-smelling digested matter. At the highest point, was a flashing red light structure, presumably to alert aircraft of the mountainous features on the island. Below this, there was a box labeled "Guestbook" in several different languages, and inside was a ledger which we signed collectively with: Furman University Earth and Environmental Sciences Department SC, USA; along with the date and the time of our ascension to the summit (12:15pm). I also signed the ledger with my name, the date, 12:15pm, and the initials U.S.A. The island Heimaey is home to 4,000-5,000 inhabitants. In 1973, an eruption along a north-northeast to south-southwest fissure resulted in a curtain of effusive lava flow which destroyed 417 homes and expanded the island's area by 20%. The eruption event began on 23 January 1973 and ended 3 July 1973, covering a quarter of the town with lava and much of the island with tephra, ash, and lapilli (more on this later). From our vantage point, we could easily see which parts of the island were created by this event, based on their red and black color, lack of man-made structures, and relatively recent vegetation. The Vestmannaeyjar were formed 10,000-20,000 years ago by sub-glacial volcanic eruptions. Like all of Iceland, this area is quite prone to volcanism. We enjoyed the 360 degree view, sandwiches, and chocolate for lunch, before beginning the perilous journey back to the base of the mountain at 1:15pm. We were back at our starting point by 2:00pm. Next, we walked into the fishing village, savoring the smell of fish processing facilities on our way. We stopped at an N1 gas station to use the Water Closet, rest our legs, and get a snack. Ice cream and french fries (courtesy of our generous professors) reinvigorated us students, and we were eager to embark on our next hike: to the top of one of the cinder cones produced by the fissure that erupted in 1973. Along the way, we climbed a set of stairs which led from the village street up to a high, rocky area covered in dandelions and purple flowers. This elevated ridge corresponds with the extent of the lava flow. From this point on, our path was rocky and steep. Red, black, and gray volcanic rocks formed an unstable gravel of tephra and lapilli beneath our feet, and the closer we came to the cinder cone, the more large pyroclastic bombs we observed. It was amazing to see how well the eruption site was preserved. Whether this was to provide warning of future events that may occur, or to concede the fate of the newly-created real estate to the will of God, I do not know. Upon reaching the top of the scoria cone, I could see a neat row of bumps and mountains, propagating outward from my vantage point along the north-northeast to south-southwest trend of the fissure. These knolls, hills, and mountains indicate the origin of the lava flow in 1973. The summit of this particular cone had a unique feature which reminded me of the geothermal situation that Iceland is blessed with: heat vents, sometimes in the simple form of rocks which were warm to the touch and sometimes in the form of crevasses and holes that radiated thermal energy so strongly that waves could be seen in the cold Icelandic air. Dr. Suresh found a particular geothermal vent which was ideal for heating his remaining french fries. After enjoying a couple of geothermally reheated fried potato slices, we made way for the museum Eldheimar. We arrived at the museum at 5:20pm, and immediately noticed the excavated remains of a fishing captain's house. This residence was buried beneath 50 meters of ash and tephra from 1973 to 2006. In fact, the museum of Eldheimar was build around this abandoned structure after it was resurrected by archaeologists. "The Green Island," as Heimaey was called prior to the eruption, was home to well over 5,000 people, 1,400 homes, and many acres of farm land before the event of 1973. Fish were the island's primary export, and as a result, Heimaey's economy depended on the sea. In late-January 1973, stormy weather confined the island's fishing fleet to the harbor. This turned out to be a tremendous blessing in disguise. As one citizen put it, "The Earth simply ripped apart, and fire flowed from the sea" on 23 January 1973. Along the fissure, tongues of erupting lava flowed up to 200 meters into the sky. However, thanks to the poor fishing weather, most people were able to be evacuated via ship. The sick and elderly were airlifted out on planes from Heimaey's unaffected airstrip. Over the course of the entire eruption, only one casualty occurred: a man breathed toxic fumes from the volcanic gasses and was subsequently killed. Unfortunately, fertile farm land and many animals were lost during the eruption. Luckily, the rescue and mitigation efforts were highly effective. A prominent geophysicist suggested pumping seawater onto the lava in order to redirect the flow, and this technique saved many people's homes and the economically-vital harbor. On average, 1,200 truck loads of ash and debris were removed from the village each day. Tephra from the event was reused to enhance the runway, and the redirected lava flow actually resulted in a safer, more sheltered harbor for Heimaey. This eruption prompted the largest evacuation of people in Iceland's history, and a third of those people never returned to the island. Some say there were signs of impending destruction prior to the event. Had the fissure erupted 30 years later, seismologists would have had the technology to detect volcanic activity in advance. Some people claim to have dreamt about an eruption prior to the event, while others cite 13 prior full moons as proof enough of inevitable misfortune. Ten years earlier, the Surtsey eruption built the newest of the Westman Islands in 1963, so regional volcanism was certainly something that the people were familiar with. After much learning, we departed Eldheimar at 6:40pm and arrived at Gott Restaurant at 6:57pm. There we enjoyed a fresh, locally-sourced dinner (I had the Italian-style chicken wrap, sweet potato, and salad), then scrambled to board the ferry before its final departure of the day. The views of the Vestmannaeyjar off her stern were some of the most beautiful I had seen in Iceland. Once she landed at 9:30pm, we boarded our bus and made way to Skógar, stopping only to collect a red-headed hitchhiker along the way. We were back at our hostel at 10:14pm, and anxious to get some much-needed rest after the day's events.
Still chilling,
-B
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