Encounter with Puffins
Today, we departed from our hostel in Byldudalor at approximately 9:26am. Our destination was the cliffs of Latrabjarg, the westernmost point in all of Europe. While en route aboard our golden megabus, I noticed many fish farms in the submerged glacial troughs of the fjords. Aquaculture is a major industry in Iceland, as our driver, Thor, explained. Fish is a significant Icelandic export, so deep sea angling is augmented by aquaculture to help meet market demands. According to our guide, these particular fish farms probably raise cod. Nearing the destination cliffs, I noticed the rocky highland landscape begin to subside and be replaced by rolling sand dunes with tall, brown grasses. The weather was partly cloudy, bright, and sunny. From the comfort of our bus, I would have expected to be met with warmth upon our arrival at Latrabjarg. Of course, this is Iceland, so I grabbed my layers in spite of these foolish preconceived notions. At 11:14am, the bumpy, dirt road ended in parking lot and we had arrived. The weather outside was windy and cold, but did not stop us from reading some signs which provided information about the birds which nest here, as well as a daring nautical rescue on a stormy winter day. First the rescue: on 12 December 1947, the trawler Dhoon ran aground in the rocky shoals at the base of the cliffs. A team of Icelandic villagers decided to rappel down the vertical cliffs (which are 444 meters above the ocean at their highest point) to rescue the stranded crew members below. The cliffs are so steep as a result of constant weathering from the ocean below, which endlessly pounds away at the base. We also learned about the ten different bird species which nest in the cliffs. These species include the razorbilled auk, kittiwake, guillemot, and fulmar. The puffin, a member of the guillemot family, is distinguishable from its avian brethren by its brightly-colored bill. The fulmar looks similar to a common seagull in appearance, but has been known to regurgitate fish oil on its predators as a defense mechanism. In total, over one million birds call the cliffs of Latrabjarg home, and a handful of my friends were unlucky enough to be defecated upon by them. Aside from being one of the primary nesting homes for the Icelandic puffin, this site is also the largest nesting site in the world for the razorbilled auk. After initially observing some soaring fulmars and blubbery seals sunning themselves on the rocks below, I set out in search of the iconic puffin. Based on the information presented by the sign, I knew that puffins (like other guillemots) lay their eggs in scree growing in cliff sides or burrow into rock niches and narrow ledges in order to nest. While on my puffin trek, I almost lost my hat in a strong gust of wind. The wind whips over the ledges very strongly here, motivating one of several warnings posted around Latrabjarg. The other warning involved the treacherous, loose soil along the edge of the cliffs, explaining that nesting birds create holes and weak spots on the ledges. I finally spotted three puffins emerging from their niches just below the top ledge of the cliffs. These fidgety birds were approximately eight inches tall, and not shy at all around humans. I was able to take numerous close-up photos of all three birds before one of them flew off, probably to collect some fish. Puffins have the advantage of being able to dive up to 60 meters into the water to capture their prey. After spending some time observing the puffins, I decided to hike over to the shallow, rocky tidal pools downhill and inland of the cliffs. There was no observable wildlife in these tide pools, but they were ideal spots for skipping rocks. On my way back to the cliff ledge, I noticed a relatively large fragment of broken egg (about two inches in diameter) and a feather longer than my boot in length, further evidence of the many avian species which inhabit this area. On our return trip from Latrabjarg, we stopped to collect samples of sand from the beach. Using a magnet, Dr. Ranson discovered that the sample was laden with magnetite grains. While searching for dinner aboard our gilded automobile, we stopped for a brief stretch break at an aircraft museum. I immediately noticed the dismantled US Navy B-27 in front of a locked hangar. Inside the hangar was a cool chrome biplane and an old jeep, both in wonderful condition. After a bit more driving, we finally arrived at Heimsendi Bistro, a restaurant nestled in another small fishing village tucked away in the fjords. Thor had to convince the chef to open the restaurant a bit early (we arrived at around 4:30pm, and they didn't open until 6:00pm), but I doubt this was a very challenging endeavor given the fact that there were 20 starving Americans outside ready to patronize his establishment. The meal I had at this bistro was probably the best I've had in Iceland (except for the chilli we made for ourselves earlier). I had the roasted lamb, which was served with potatoes, vegetables, bread, and even some complimentary coffee. The coffee was a nice boost for the end of the day. After enjoying a crisp walk around town and observing some children at play in the streets and on the soccer field, we disembarked aboard our bus at around 6:55pm and returned to our hostel in Byldudalor by 7:30pm.
Signing off,
-B
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